The Curious Case of Supermarket Cheddar

Supermarket cheddars often get a bad rap, but a recent taste test reveals that even among industrial behemoths, there are glimmers of excellence waiting to be discovered. The Somerset borders, known for their traditional English cheddar production, boast a unique combination of limestone geology and microclimate that’s said to imbue their cheese with a distinct flavor profile.

Among the supermarket offerings tested, M&S British mature cheddar stood out for its rich, nutty flavors and complex textures. Made at Taw Valley Creamery in Devon, this utilitarian block of creamy cheddar boasts a clear, lactic-sour twang and an unmistakable umami depth.

In contrast, some supermarket cheddars feel more like mass-produced fare. Tesco Finest mature cheddar, for instance, is a large, family-friendly block of Cornish cheddar made by Davidstow Creamery. While it’s certainly a crowd-pleaser, its mild flavor and rounded sweetness may not satisfy those seeking a more robust experience.

The case of Sainsbury’s West Country farmhouse mature cheddar is particularly instructive. Made using traditional methods and British milk by Barber’s dairy – the oldest cheddar maker in the world – this cheese offers a rich, nutty flavor profile that’s both crumbly and creamy. As a protected designation of origin cheese, it’s bound by strict regulations governing its production, which may contribute to its exceptional quality.

The scores are telling: while some supermarket cheddars manage to eke out respectable ratings, others fall woefully short. It’s clear that even among the most well-known brands and producers, there’s a wide range in terms of flavor profile, texture, and overall quality.

As consumers become increasingly discerning about the products they buy, perhaps it’s high time for supermarkets to take a closer look at their cheddar offerings. By seeking out smaller producers and more artisanal offerings, shoppers can find cheddars that offer a depth of flavor and complexity previously reserved for more exclusive brands.